Big Sister (Faith Peak)
Completed in dry conditions, do not attempt in snow. If you’re doing this one, it’s best to just stick to the ridge (third and likely some fourth class) going up. This is a very fun scramble on high quality limestone slab (for the majority). The exposure on this route is highest on some of the more technically challenging portions, so make sure you are confident on at least third class. Note that there is mention of an easier ascent route in Kane’s guide book that includes some of our descent route, but it is steep, loose, exposed to rockfall, and not recommended. It’s also worth noting that we did not use any GPS map all day, since the routes on them are not the best for this peak.
Big Sister is the highest of the photogenic trio called the Three Sisters, located just south of Canmore. Together, these three peaks are likely some of the most photographed peaks in the Rockies, being visible from both Highway 1 and much of the town of Canmore. Originally, the Three Sisters were known as the Three Nuns, because after a snowfall, they somewhat resemble nuns in white cloaks. Later, they were named the Three Sisters, and are now officially known as Big Sister (Faith Peak), Middle Sister (Hope Peak), and Little Sister (Charity Peak). Big Sister is well documented in Alan Kane’s Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies.
The parking area is an unnamed gravel pullout on the north side of the Spray Lake Road (Highway 742) just after the Spray Lakes West Campground turn off. It is situated about a 25 minute drive from the start of the gravel and the total driving time from the Calgary city limits is about 1:20 hours. The Spray Lakes Road is gravel, but does not require a high clearance vehicle at any point in the year, although the bumps can get quite big, so personally I wouldn’t take anything smaller than an SUV up there.
From the parking area, begin up a small hill and then head left on an old logging road for a short while. Follow the trail to a large drainage and cross it. Meet up with the obvious trail on the other side. Continue up the treed ridge on this steep but straightforward trail, overcoming some slab and tree root steps as needed. The route then continues up the ridge (or close to it) on a trail and on slab until an obvious step with the word “Up” spray painted on it. This step really isn’t avoidable and is hard third class or possibly even fourth class at most, but only for one move. After this, continue up a good slab on the ridge until the next crux, where there is a bypass to the left if it seems unnerving. The easiest way up the avoidable crux step is fourth class, but only for a short bit, but I wouldn’t want to fall on it (3.5/5 exposure). After this, continue on yet more good slab and over much third class terrain. After short class three downclimb, the alternate ascent route (ideally descent route) meets up with the ridge route. Continue up more slab, now with some choss, aiming to stick close to the ridge. After you feel like you might be getting close to the summit, there is an abrupt drop off that can be downclimbed. It is no more than third class and is considered the “crux” in the Kane guidebook. Contour directly to the left of the “fin” and hike up the obvious trail, then, continue straight up and scramble up some easy slabs. You will reach the summit before you know it. To descend, retrace your steps down to the Kane “crux” and scramble/hike down the chossy but easy slabs to a small step that leads to the ridge route that you ascended. Head left down the scree gully, where good scree running/skiing can be found. There is rockfall danger in this gully so beware of other parties around you. Continue down and stick somewhat close to the cliff band to your right, ensuring that you are only ever on the scree ledge that is directly below it. Eventually, the terrain begins to steepen and becomes worse, this is where you will find an obvious notch in the cliff band below/to the skier's right. As you approach it, an easier option directly to its right will become apparent. Scramble up this third class step and continue down more third class slab until you see a “Down”, where you must delicately downclimb a small tougher part (this one is actually possibly easier to downclimb than it was to climb up). From here, descend the same way that you came up.
Since our last trip was spent finding our way up a potentially unnamed summit that we nicknamed Brewster Peak, it was time that Antoine and I took a walk up Big Sister. I’m not exactly sure why we had wanted to do it so badly for a while. Maybe it was the good scrambling? The tougher route? Just the peak itself? Anyways, with zero planning (we brought along the Kane guidebook for the car ride and always have Alltrails just in case), we gave it a shot.
We saw a massive herd of Elk while passing through the Three Sisters area.
We started off at 8:30 am at the trailhead and got the Alltrails (me) and the Strava (Antoine) going.
Quick walk on an old logging road.
We crossed the drainage here and found the trail for the Big Sister scramble route. If you really want, you can go up the canyon and take a left up a long gully, which is also a viable ascent, although not recommended for the reasons I’ve already listed above. Also, there are some cool snow patches about five minutes up the canyon that may have a snow cave, which is totally worth checking out (see my pictures at the end of the report).
The trail is quite steep and rocky, but very easy.
The views started opening up even though it felt like we had just started.
Sticking to the ridge on great slab.
We’re following the ridge all the way from left to the summit at right.
Cairn photography at its absolute finest.
Antoine: “I wonder where we go up?”. This part was kind of tricky to be honest. And unavoidable. Tough third, possibly even fourth, but just for a short move.
Beautiful views over to Old Goat Mountain (furthest left on this ridge).
More very high quality slab. We kept commenting on how good the scrambling was. That’s how you know it’s good scrambling.
Our optional fourth class crux. Bypass heads way over to the left, but this is more simple. I wouldn’t want to fall here though.
Nice photo opportunity here.
As you can see there is plenty of slab and plenty of third class. This bit is quite exposed too, especially to the right.
Where did our good quality rock go? I’m not quite sure.
See what I mean about being comfortable on third class? Yes. It is everywhere, although I think this bit is avoidable to the right, but seriously, it’s more fun to just go right up it.
You really can’t tell the exposure when you’re going up. This puts it into perspective.
Just before the Kane “crux” downclimb, we came across some nice flowers. Again, top tier iPhone photography on this one.
More cairn photography. Whoever built these made them very aesthetic.
This “fin” is contoured to the left.
This is looking up the big downclimb (sorry for the bad photo!). It looks way worse than it is, but is exposed and long, although only third class.
Heading up the ledge on the left side of the fin. This is where you don’t want snow. It’s not very steep though and just a hike.
There’s a nice viewpoint window here. What a weird day for the lighting. It almost looks as if it's still sunrise. Interesting.
Our last few steps to the summit after a bit more straightforward scrambling on the ridge.
Claimed the summit.
Summit pano gets almost everything. Assiniboine is hiding in the clouds, but you can see Sir Douglas to the south. Apparently even Joffre and Temple are visible on a clear day.
Antoine got a tiny bit in the way of this one but oh well. Rundle is at center.
A lone scrambler gazing into the abyss (aka Antoine went to check out a sub peak).
Interesting views of Middle Sister and Little Sister.
Starting to head down after our 30 minute summit stay.
The easy and well traveled trail leads to the Kane “crux”.
Antoine scrambling back up the big step.
The choss on the slabs was a lot more noticeable on the descent for some reason.
At this point, we headed down to the left. This is where our descent route splits from the ascent route.
After slipping and sliding down some great scree, we took the higher ledge. The left one likely leads to tough slabby terrain, so do yourself a favor and don’t go there.
Sticking close to the cliff band on skier’s right. It was still great scree running. Definitely a better descent than going down what we came up.
The scree running disappeared altogether at this point. I guess it was fun while it lasted. Also, make sure to aim straight for that crack in the cliff band just right of center.
Antoine making his way up the tough crack (likely hard fourth or even fifth). An easier option exists just a bit to the right.
Here’s the easier option. Third class at most.
After making it down the little step with the spray paint, Antoine found a chair to relax on.
Heading down, now back on the ascent route.
We ended up taking a left off the ascent route that led down into the gully. There was a trail and tape, so we figured it would be fine. Although, I’d still recommend going down the way you came up for the tree section.
We encountered what we think is a young bighorn sheep.
Looking back up the way we came down. Somehow we made it down to this grassy/treed ledge. Interesting, but not purposeful.
We continued down the drainage and it narrowed significantly.
Interesting contrast.
As I came around the corner I heard Antoine yelling at me to come check “this out”. Yes this is what you think it is.
Snow cave! This thing was awesome. Very, very cool. And it’s only like a five minute walk up the drainage. It should be like this most years, so it would totally be worth checking it out at the end of your day.
Leaving the snow cave now. Still very cool.
Now heading down the drainage and back to the trail. It's a very short walk up honestly.
After a short walk down the drainage from the snow cave, we rejoined the trail.
Almost back to the car.
Well, there we go. That’s Big Sister in the books. I have to say it again for emphasis, but what a fun scramble! The ridge was definitely the right choice, and our scree ledge descent was perfect. We did get off track a bit in the trees though, but we made it down an alternate way that I didn’t even know existed, which led to discovering the snow cave, so there’s nothing to complain about there. Overall, this was the perfect trip for the day, and I’m so glad to have done it. I might even have to take Ezra and my Dad back up here. For overall marks, Antoine gave it a 4 star, which is very, very good. For context, he has very few 4.5 stars, and no 5 stars, because according to him he hasn’t done any five star scrambles yet, but when he does he will know. Anyways, this trip is definitely recommended for anyone capable enough to ascend the ridge and I’m sure that you’ll enjoy it if you decide to take a jaunt up this peak.