Observation Peak and Outliers (Charlie Peak)
Completed when dry, possible if wet and snowy. Both peaks have significant avalanche slopes during the winter, however both have been summited on skis, with the Observation Peak outliers having popular ski slopes. When ascending Observation Peak, it is important to follow the approach trail to the left gully and not the right (Kane route) to avoid unnecessary scree slogging. All scrambling on this peak can be avoided via steep and loose gullies. There is plenty of serious treadmill scree on the mountain, so choose your path wisely. Charlie Peak (outlier) can be accessed via the ridge from the Observation Peak false summit (suggested), or a tedious traverse lower down (our ill chosen route). If choosing to do the outliers, be warned that it will be extremely difficult to return to your original ascent route, which leaves an alternate route down steep and loose scree and dirt.
Situated right at Bow Summit on the Icefields Parkway, Observation Peak is 3174 meter peak that allows for and incredible panoramic view, often being able to see as far as Mount Assiniboine to the south (112km away), Mount Sir Donald to the west, and perhaps even Mount Columbia to the north. The peak was named by Charles L. Noyes, a Boston clergyman, who found it to be the best viewpoint he had ever been to. Situated just a couple kilometres southeast of Observation Peak, there are two (or perhaps three depending on the angle) distinct outliers, the highest of which has recently been nicknamed Charlie Peak "in honour of Charlie - the best dog one could ever ask for."
The parking for Observation Peak is situated on an old gravel road directly across from the Peyto Lake Road. It is on the right hand side approximately 40 km (25 minutes) up the Icefields Parkway, and may be difficult to get out of if snowy or icy. The driving time from the Calgary city limits is approximately 2:15 hours.
This route describes the ascent of Observation Peak and the simplest ascent of Charlie Peak and the eastern outlier as an optional add on. Begin by hiking up the old road for a while, ignoring the first right hand turn (Kane route, not recommended). The road then slowly turns into a good trail that ascends through the woods. Before you know it, you're in the left hand gully, making your way up the trail. Continue on the best trail that brings you back on to the ridge and switchbacks up to a narrow point, where the cliff bands loom ahead. Just before the narrow point, there is an option to drop down to the right on loose dirt and scree and ascend the gully. The ideal route stays on the ridge and follows a path to a short rock band (crux) that is YDS III for one small section. Continue up and skirt the next cliff band to the right, ascending the gully. Once you reach the top of this gully, angle slightly left, but essentially straight up toward the false summit or slightly to its left. Anywhere you go here will be loose and horrible, until you reach the ridge of the false summit. Ascend to the summit. In early season, you may be stopped here by cornices or a steep snow slope. If it is safe, continue down to the col with Observation Peak. Hike over a roll and spot a trail to the left of the big mound at right that looks to be the summit. Follow the trail past it and to to the true summit (or hike over the mound, both work). Enjoy the well deserved views. Descend the same way. For Charlie Peak, return to the false summit and instead of going down the ridge to the skier's right (that you came up), head down the left one (the one that you didn't come up). Follow it down, avoiding small cliff bands on scree, or scrambling down them. Once you arrive near the bottom, the last cliff band can either be scrambled or bypassed far at skier's right. Once you reach the col, follow the ridge and hike up to the closest peak in sight (avoidable on loose scree if you head all the way around to climber's right). From here, simply follow the ridge, bypassing obstacles at left, until the summit of Charlie Peak. For the next outlier, continue on the ridge until the peak, avoiding the rock band at the summit at climber's left. Return the same way all the way back to the Observation Peak col. From here, hike back up and aim just below the massive pile of boulders. Continue around the boulders and begin descending straight down on a ridge. It may become worrisome that there is no break in the cliff bands below, but a short amount of descent will reveal a steep scree gully. Descend the entire way, and once all the gullies converge, head over to the skier's right of the gully and soon meet up with the Kane ascent trail. Follow the trail all the way to the bottom and you will realize why it is not recommended as the ascent route. Cross the small creek, while looking out for flagging and cairns. If you lose the trail, no worries, jut continue in your original direction until you pop out on the old road. Follow the road back to the parking area. Note that the Gaia GPS route for these peaks is far from exact.
As usual with this summer, I'd taken every opportunity to get out and enjoy the mountains. This weekend was no exception. Our friend Tak that was visiting from Victoria and came on our little Stoney Squaw Mountain hike, had left on Sunday, which left Labour Day (this day) free. With a good forecast and a holiday, you know where I'll be.
We had a bit of trouble coming up with this trip. I knew I wanted to get out, but didn't really have anything pressing in mind. As per usual, I did my trip finding ritual, which began by scrolling around on Alltrails and looking for trails or peaks scattered around. I didn't have much luck there, so I went and read a couple reports on Explor8ion and Steven Song's website to no avail. I’m not exactly sure how it happened, but as I was flipping through Alan Kane’s Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, I went to the Icefields Parkway section for some reason (we don’t usually go all the way up there) and stumbled upon Observation Peak. 3174 m and a good view sounded fun. It ended up sticking and we thought we might as well go up the parkway at least once this year.
After a bit of research, we found that the Kane route (or what we think is the Kane Route) wasn’t actually the way we wanted to go (thanks to my dad), so we found a better description and route on Alltrails.
Since there was potential rain in the afternoon, 5:00 am had us up and rolling. We had the pleasure of watching the alpenglow on Mount Temple and Mount Victoria on the drive up. It would’ve been a beautiful morning at Lake Louise that’s for sure. I even commented that our view of Mount Victoria at that specific time is likely one of the best views from a highway that you could ever get, even though it is only brief.
We then turned down the winding Icefields Parkway and at the Crowfoot Glacier we stopped to get a few pictures since the peaks were absolutely glowing.
I think this was worth stopping for a picture.
Soon after, we arrived at the old road, where we made a quick u-turn and I parked my dad right over a puddle. Too bad, we had to get going.
We also were treated to a spectacular parking lot view. What a way to start out the day.
As we were preparing to depart, we must've mentioned likely seeing no fellow humans on this day. So naturally, and right on cue, another car pulled up into the parking area. I assumed that the man was just trying to turn around. Incorrect once again. He pulled up and stopped and we had a quick chat. Quite soon after he arrived, we started hiking up the trail with him. He said he had done the trip before and was back up for the relatively low elevation gain for great views. This was a very good sign.
Here's what the old road looks like leading to our ascent route. Quite a nice start if you ask me.
As we walked, we were all recounting tales of previous adventures, most surprising of which was Steve's attempt on the Kain face of Mount Robson, where him and his party were essentially left stuck by the Dome in slushy snow conditions. Too bad they couldn't make it, but an impressive feat nonetheless. It was around here that I began to understand why he chose to wear mountaineering boots for a scramble. He was old school and hard core!
Our new friend Steve leads us up the trail to the more northern gully (left when looking up the face).
The turnoff for the Kane route (or what we believe to be his anyways, the description is quite vague) was extremely obvious and we avoided it by continuing straight on the good trail. Soon enough, we began gaining quick elevation up the gully.
My dad heading up the good trail in this gully. Just above the trees we headed right and on to the face/ridge.
Once above the tree line, there were already amazing views opening up. We had practically just started too!
A beautiful shot that my dad got towards Bow Lake and the Crowfoot Glacier and Mountain
We stopped here and our friend Steve caught up for a last chat before we would take off. He told us another great story and a cautionary tale. Apparently, as he and his wife were ice climbing by this highway, they left their packs to pick them up when they were done, but as they got back, they found everything from their packs strewn out everywhere, all the buckles opened, zippers undone and everything. Guess what it was? Ravens. So don't leave your packs.
As the story goes, he ended up telling some of his friends about this who were planning on doing a similar trip. The best part about this is that they completely ignored him and left their packs. The best part about the story was that the exact same thing happened to them, but even better, they were in the dark and couldn't find their car keys that they had left in the bag. After a couple hours of searching in the snow with headlamps, they found the prize and returned home safely, but this is definitely not a position that I would've liked to be in.
My three main takeaways from the story are that ravens are smart and can open anything. Don't leave your packs around here without properly closing them with locking carabiners, and keep your keys on you! A bonus is to listen to your friends when they warn you about something. Usually they are trying to help you.
We soon left our friend behind and continued the slog.
Here's the typical terrain on this lower section. There's a decent trail that switchbacks through most of it though so it's easy going.
Starting into a bit of more "scrambling terrain". The cliff formations at left are very eye-catching.
The cliff bands are now in sight. We didn't know exactly how we should tackle them, but just followed the ridge up to their base.
We easily found the weakness in the first cliff band and hiked straight up to it. Time for some fun!
I guess this is the technical crux of the trip. It looks hard, but really isn't. The bottom half for like 2 moves would be class 3 and the top is just class 2. This is also avoidable, but it involves descending to the gully and then slogging all the way up steep, loose grossness.
After the "crux", we contoured to the climber's right around some cliffs and found some simple scrambling to avoid the loose stuff.
Wow. Even better views looking toward Bow Lake.
After exiting the gully that we used to get through the cliff bands, we were left with this to get to the false summit.
We headed left, but mostly straight up. I did not enjoy this part. Literal sand is what you're trying to walk up. At one point I actually was sliding down more than I was going up and I'm supposed to be good at this by now. Apparently this mountain just has the most treadmill of treadmill scree imaginable, but at least it's good fun on the descent.
Does it ever end? No it does not.
Just kidding! It does eventually. Here's the last bit to the false summit.
Made it to the false summit. The true summit is actually at far left and about 100 m higher than this point. It's also worth mentioning again that cornices here may stop early season attempts from continuing to the true summit.
We didn't stay at all at the false summit though, and the views are better at the true summit so I'll save all the pictures for there. The descent to the col is rather quick and painless, even though the wind started to really pick up around this time.
After walking up the big centre mound for a bit, we noticed our trail to the summit. My dad didn't believe that that far bump was actually the summit, but I convinced him the the trail reasoning.
Just a few minutes away now.
Summit of Observation Peak! What a lovely view.
I can say from this view that the peak name is quite fitting (I got this pano from the "snow summit" that I was standing on).
Looking east to the Siffleur Valley area. Recondite and Willingdon are the two 11000ers over here.
Views over towards the Siffleur Valley were interesting. Marmot Peak is the little guy below and looks quite tough. Perhaps the other side offers an easier ascent? I don't think anyone's done it though. The pointy and obvious peak at right is Recondite Peak, with many other obscure peaks in the isolated wilderness.
Looking northwest, many Icefields Parkway peaks are visible. Howse, White Pyramid, and Chephren are especially tall and pointy over the small lake. Even Forbes is visible slightly left of those three.
This is such a great view of Peyto Lake. Probably better than the viewpoint down at the actual lake to be honest. Wapta peaks rise at left, with the Freshfield Icefield in the distance at right.
There is still a glacier on this peak and an even bigger one out of frame below at left (I don't have any pictures of it). In the distance at centre is Mount Hector, with a very hazy and distant Mount Assiniboine to its right over 110 km away.
After walking around the summit for an abnormal amount of time taking pictures, videos, and peering over to see below at all angles, I went back to the cairn and settled for some lunch. It was only 10:30, but who was counting time.
Have to show off this summit sandwich. It might've been one of my best creations. Bagel, Montreal smoked meat, cheddar, mustard, and sauerkraut. Delicious.
After signing the summit register, I left a little snack for someone in need.
Even though the summit was a bit cold, I enjoyed it very much. I got to spot so many different peaks and was even able to identify Mount Kerr from our Little Yoho Traverse trip the weekend before. As we started heading down, I even looked over between White Pyramid and Chephren and saw a huge snowy peak. I though it was probably Mount Columbia all the way on the Columbia Icefield and according to my map I was absolutely correct. There is a perfect straight line shot from Observation Peak straight through the col to Columbia. What a surprise if I do say so myself.
Heading back down now.
We traversed on the good scree trail and it got very windy again. Not fun. This gives a good perspective of how insignificant the false summit actually is.
Once we were back on the false summit, I decided we would be taking a trip to the outliers. Ideally via the ridge directly ahead. The Lake Louise group dominates the horizon at distant right.
My dad had other ideas though, so we descended back the way that we came up. Unfortunate.
Once we got down a fair ways on great scree running, I asked why we weren't going to check out the outliers. It had only been about three hours, so our trip was going to be way too short. After a quick conversation, we were off to the outliers on a very loose traverse. We kind of went across and descended at the same time to make it easier, but it was still not the funnest. I was already starting to regret trail runners as my choice of footwear.
This is near the end of the traverse. We descended to the snow and then headed straight to the col.
Hiking down to the col. The left peak isn't actually a peak, so we were heading for the one to its right.
Looking back at the false summit of Observation Peak from past the col. It would've definitely been feasible, not to mention easier to descend the ridge. I would definitely recommend coming down that as opposed to what we did. It looks to be easy, but there might be one tougher step near the bottom that looks avoidable if needed.
And now for a talus grind up the this first outlier. We had plenty of these false summits to go around on this day.
Uh oh. There's two of them? I guess I'll have to break the news to my dad that I'll have to go to both.
Hiking to the main outlier. This was around where I left my dad to run up and see both peaks.
The summit ridge was fun and a tiny bit exposed in some places.
Before long I reached the second summit of the day!
It was a little further and longer from Observation than originally anticipated, but in my mind it was worth the trip. Observation Peak by itself would've been too short of a day. As soon as I got to the top here, I learned that this peak has now unofficially been named Charlie Peak, after someone's pup. It warmed my heart to see.
I was quick to sign the register and take pictures. Before my dad could arrive, I was running down to check out the next outlier.
This is possibly a better pano than the one from Observation Peak to be honest. Observation Peak at right, the other outlier at left. The view of both lakes was quite magical.
This pano shows the rapidly receding glacier on the opposite side of the peak.
Here's where I got all the quotes and info from. There were also some cute pictures of Charlie at the back.
Since this peak doesn't have a name, I'm all for the naming thing, if you find it and climb it of course. It's definitely a sweet thought and gives some life to all the unnamed and sad bumps around.
Now it's off to check out this last outlier.
I found some very purple rocks on the ascent to this peak. I was even considering calling it Purple Peak, but it simply isn't significant to really deserve a summit status. They don't all count I guess.
It does have a cairn though, if that even means anything these days.
I walked around this peak for a short while and noticed a large plateau and connecting ridge leading to Cirque Peak. I'm sure it's possible, we just didn't really have the time or energy for it this day.
Here's Cirque Peak and that large plateau.
Here's a view of OXO, Watermelon, and Bobac (R to L in the closest range). You can even see Alice Lake, a great random camping spot and usually used to ascent the two neighbouring peaks.
Here's something the the skier's that come up here don't get to see.
They don't get to see this purple either.
Anyways, time to head back now. Charlie Peak is pretty small from this side.
Bow Lake from the col.
Meanwhile, my dad was thinking the same thing about the purple rock.
I was cooking and soon reached Charlie Peak a second time before heading back down to join my dad.
This is where I found my dad after I had come down from Charlie. A place with a view and a sheltered spot out of the wind.
We stopped here and ate the last of our food. Or I did at least. This included a juice box and a tiny fruit snack. Not much, but it got me down.
After skirting around the last outlier, we made our way to the col.
We then traversed on this flat(ish) section of scree.
The sun was at the perfect angle that Peyto Lake was literally glowing. So cool.
Where we stopped traversing.
Heres' the descent gully. It's pretty much the only viable option on this side, so make sure you find it.
Looking back up the steepest part of the gully. This wasn't the most fun experience.
Further down the gully, we transitioned to the skier's right side to avoid steep and slippery dirt.
This rock looks like natural concrete, very weird, very interesting. Or maybe it's fossilized poo?
After both gullies joined into one big one, we traversed to join a trail on the skier's right of the big gully.
Now on the trail. We immediately saw why people don't come up this way. It's steep, loose, and not even good to scree ski.
A little further down, we crossed the creek and followed the trail down the skier's left side until the end.
Once we got to the bottom, we picked our way over a stream and through the trees, following flagging and cairns.
Now back on the old road and essentially done the trip.
Our ascent route for Observation Peak and descent route from Charlie Peak from the car.
As we got back to the car, we chatted with a nice lady who asked us about our trip. She said they were there looking for an old cabin on the road. I might be mistaken, but I believe it was her grandfather that lived there before it was torn down. She informed us that they had in fact found the place where it was.
It's so interesting to hear and see people's adventure in the Rockies and you never know who you might run into on the trail. This day proved exactly that. We don't think Steve ever summited the peak on this day, but maybe we'll see him around sometime.
Overall, I had sore feet. Trail runners were not the best choice for the day, in fact they were far from it. But seriously, this was an awesome day out. A bonus peak on top of an already big peak (plus great views) is an okay way to spend a Monday. I will have to say that it wasn't the most fun or best of all time, but it is a great day out. I would also recommend heading over to Charlie if you have the time, but make sure to go on the south ridge from the false summit of Observation Peak, it will save time and energy that we lost on our "fun" and very loose scree traverse. There are great views at all times during this day, so make sure you have nice weather and a fully charged phone or even better, a camera.