Lake Alice Via Helen Lake
Completed in dry conditions as part of a 1 night bivy at Lake Alice, while bagging Cirque Peak, Watermelon Peak, and Bobac Mountain. This trip describes the hiking portion to and from Lake Alice, with the 3 peaks that we bagged having separate trip reports as out and backs from this main route. It is very straightforward hiking on a graded trail to Helen Lake. From there, there is a steep slope to gain Helen Ridge, where an easy switchbacking trail can be found at climber's right. There is some straightforward off trail hiking from the Dolomite Creek Trail to get to Lake Alice. Bivy permits to climb Watermelon Peak and Bobac Mountain are the only way that we know that you can legally camp near (not at) Lake Alice, otherwise it can be done as a long but very enjoyable day trip. The trail up to Helen Ridge can be quite busy, especially on weekends, so it is recommended to get an early start.
Helen Lake, Lake Katherine, and Lake Alice (along with all the other tarns around) are each spectacular alpine lakes that lie behind Crystal Ridge in a network of small valleys above tree line. Helen Lake was named for Reverend Harry P. Nichols’ daughter as well as Lake Katherine and Lake Alice also being named after special women in Nichols’ life. Nichols was President of the American Alpine Club and completed a few first ascents in the Canadian Rockies, including that of nearby Cirque Peak, a now very popular hike/scramble.
The access for this hike is the Helen Lake parking lot. It is approximately a 33 km (20 minutes) drive north on the Icefields Parkway and the pull out is on the right, opposite of the Crowfoot Glacier lookout, it is hard to miss. Total driving time from the Calgary city limits is about 2 hours.
The nice thing about this hike is that most of it is done on a straightforward trail. From the parking lot, head up the trail and gain elevation before traversing for a while and crossing a few small creeks. Gain more elevation and wrap around the south end of Crystal Ridge, from here it is a nice and straightforward hike, mostly in the alpine to get to Helen Lake, if you're stopping here or even if you're not, take a little time to enjoy the lovely lake. From Helen Lake, follow the trail around the side. Once you begin climbing, notice an easy trail heading off to climber's right, that is the easier route. Either way, continue up to Helen Ridge. If you'd like to go to the top, take a right on a not-so-obvious trail and head to the top of the ridge. If you're looking to complete Cirque Peak (in another of my reports), there are two possible routes, the first is the head straight up the ridge to the left and the second is to go around the hidden tarn and slog up the obvious scree trail. If continuing to Dolomite Pass, Lake Katherine, Lake Alice or more remote areas, instead of turning, head straight down the trail and stick to the right of the drainage, the trail should be marked by cairns and then become more obvious as you descend into the meadow. Continue to Lake Katherine, over the scenic land bridge and soon to Dolomite Pass (not super evident where it is). If continuing to Lake Alice, descend on the good trail to Dolomite Creek. Hike along the creek and cross it (may require getting wet), from here, stay to the right side of the valley aiming directly below the scree slope of the small cliffs that look to be guarding Lake Alice. Once you are around these small cliffs, begin gaining elevation by the outflow, picking you way through the rocks until you reach the Lake. Cross the outflow to the left on the small bridge and hike along the lake if possible, head all the way around the lake to a sandy beach. From here, head about 500 m into the boulder field (or how far parks tells you to go) and find a spot to set up camp. There are some good, flat spots below the scree slopes of Bobac Mountain (north side of the valley). Enjoy your serene bivy if you are staying the night or your pleasant hike out if you are completing this as a day trip. All descents follow their respective ascent route.
This trip kind of came up out of nowhere. My dad told be he'd be taking a week off, so if we wanted to go backpacking, we could. I was immediately searching for something and the first thing that came to mind was an area that I had found while looking around the map in the areas close to Observation Peak. I noted a trail leading to a couple small lakes, one of which that seemed remote enough to be in the Banff random camping area. I asked my dad if he'd like to go and got an immediate yes. I mean it is literally right next to where we just were the weekend before, but who cares, it just gave us more motivation (and information) since we had seen all the peaks from Observation Peak and the outliers.
We ended up squeezing the trip in between a Saturday night dinner, and the decay of a high pressure system on Monday afternoon, for an epic 1 nighter. This worked out perfectly, because when we called parks, they informed us that we couldn't random camp at Lake Alice. After telling him that we were going to attempt Watermelon Peak and Bobac Mountain, he reluctantly gave us a bivy permit for 500m away from the Lake.
With the permit secured, we packed our bags and got ready. Our trip itinerary was to hike in early to Helen Lake on the trail (some reviews noted that it gets quite packed, which it does), rather than hike up the Helen Creek route. Then, we would drop our packs, summit Cirque and then head over to Alice. We would then quickly set up camp and summit Watermelon before sunset, leaving Bobac and the hike out for the next morning. Great plan.
We awoke at 5:00 am and were starting up on the trail just after 8:00 am. We have a bit of a slow transition time from sleep to driving some mornings, but we were still out nice and early for a crisp September morning.
Just as we were starting, my dad informed me that he had forgotten almost a whole days worth of food in the fridge. Fortunately, I tend to bring a lot of extra calories, so hopefully it would be enough to get us through.
The very empty Helen Lake parking lot. Still, a few people were already on the trail, props to them.
As we set off, I noticed a few lengthy destinations on the sign. Likely they were meant for horses, but there's no reason why we can't hike to them some time.
Give or take a couple seconds after we started, my dad blazed up the trail. I did not expect that at all. I was honestly a bit worried that I wouldn't be able to keep up.
There are a couple of tiny creek crossings like this on the very wide trail.
After a bit of climbing, we were treated to this nice glow on the Crowfoot Glacier, with Crowfoot Mountain behind. The peak to the left of the image is Bowcrow Peak, named since it's sandwiched in between Bow Peak and Crowfoot Mountain. I chuckled to myself as I told this to my dad. He did not chuckle.
We were surprised to see this somewhat large burn section on the trail. It looks like it provides easy access to Crystal Ridge, even though it's not technically the route.
Soon enough, we came around the corner and were treated to some views of Dolomite Peak. It looks like a very fun scramble, although I'm not exactly sure which peak(s) is/are the main one(s), I believe there are 2.
A zoomed in shot of Mount Hector, with Little Hector below, and Mount Andromache at left. I'd like to do all of them and ideally Hector from the ridge with Little Hector.
Now we've rounded the "u-turn" corner and are heading towards Helen Lake and Cirque Peak. I was starting to get really excited about the terrain.
A picturesque creek crossing as we got close to Helen Lake. We had already passed one group at this point and there looked to only be a few people ahead, which is exactly what we were hoping for.
Now the long stretch to the lake. I was absolutely in love with the massive meadow and once I caught up to my dad I wouldn't shut up about it.
Almost at the lake! Notice anything about it?
We went over to the conventional picture spot and took many pictures and videos of the perfect mirror of a lake. Then, we walked a bit further and I got some even better pictures, with an absolutely perfect reflection.
Here's a summit of Crystal Ridge reflected over the lake from the second picture spot. No one will be hearing the end of this like ever. I call this life changing views. This is definitely something that every human has to experience at least once in their lives.
It's just so perfect. I'm eternally grateful that we got up early on this morning. What an absolute rarity and pleasure to be able to experience this. Just crazy. It still blows my mind how good this view was.
Anyways, now time to climb that big rock at left (Cirque Peak). I reluctantly left the lake behind and began non stop blabbering about it to my dad as we climbed up to Helen Ridge.
Further up, looking back at the still perfect mirror of a lake that we left behind.
We opted for the direct route up to Helen Ridge. An easy trail bypasses this further down to the climber's right.
Once we got up on to the plateau, I found a furry friend. This made me a little worried about dropping our packs, but we headed over to the unnamed tarn to drop them off anyways.
Alright, this may be a bit weird, but I'm going to stop the Cirque Peak excursion here and continue the Lake Alice "main trip" after we got back from Cirque Peak. It works well this way, because all the peaks are out and backs from this main one, so they can have their own reports. If you'd like to see our fantastic ascent of Cirque Peak you can read it here.
After coming down from a lengthy trip up Cirque and having a snack, we headed towards the trail to continue our journey to Lake Alice.
We kind of messed up the route finding en route to Lake Katherine. We should've been all the over at right on the trail, which is where we ended up going.
After quite the steep descent, we were back on the trail. OXO is the very flat peak right of center, with Watermelon being the peak in the far distance at left of center.
Let's just take a second to enjoy this massive alpine meadow, I mean it was huge. And the best part about it was that even at 1:00 pm on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, it was absolutely empty. This place would 100% be photographers paradise in full wildflower season. If there was even a bit of snow too it would be perfect. It is also most definitely hiker's paradise, I mean it's just wonderful, I absolutely can't wait to come back here.
On a different note, some may be wondering why we aren't attempting OXO Peak, I mean it's right there right? Here's why. Thank you Vern for steering us away from that mess.
Cirque Peak from the shale flats near Lake Katherine
Ah yes. Now for the "famous" land bridge over Lake Katherine.
Would you look at that. Another lovely tarn in this heavenly landscape. I believe this is Dolomite Pass (or pretty close), it's kind of hard to tell.
The only other people that we saw in the whole area were a young British couple close to the tarn. They too enjoyed the solitude of the meadows and tarns.
We made a friend! He lives under a rock just before the descent to Dolomite Creek. He should come out and say hello as you're walking by.
And now beginning the short descent to the valley.
We then crossed the creek at the right of the image without getting wet, which was good. Likely this was because it was late season.
We were heading for the big "X" or close ish.
A spur trail leads us around all the creek mess.
We chose a random drainage to head up and it appeared that it was the right one. We then followed a couple cairns until we just hiked straight up to the lake.
It's lovely hiking by the outflow from Alice. This gives an idea of the terrain. Funny enough, I was just on that pointy scree peak last weekend.
Now at Lake Alice. Watermelon Peak at right.
After gaining the ridge and then scrambling down to the lake, we traversed around the side. However, there is an easier way that involves just walking beside the lake the entire time. Too bad we didn't think about that.
Now the search for the campsite. We hiked a ways away from the lake so somewhere around this area should be good.
And we found it!
Then we put the palace up. What a lovely spot.
Before long, we were off to our ascent of Watermelon Peak. That's in a separate trip report so you can read it there, but anyways, as we got back to the camp spot, the sun had already set and it was time for some dinner by the lake.
Beautiful colours over Lake Alice. Obviously there has to be a boulder for an island too, I guess it only makes sense when you consider the massive boulder field right beside it.
Another shot. What a privilege. I was almost too tired to appreciate the beauty of this, but not quite.
Someone went for a little swim in the lake!
Can't miss with Annies by a mountain lake. I put in some tuna to add protein and it filled me right up.
As soon as we were done dinner, it was essentially dark. We then packed our stuff and hit the hay. We were hoping to catch a sunrise on Bobac Mountain, much to the reluctance of my dad. I set the alarm for 5 and then took my sweet time to fall asleep. The tent was also being very dramatic with the little wind gusts and the sounds of little creatures around us didn't really help either. Eventually I did fall asleep though.
We arose at 5 and hit our objective Bobac Mountain. In another trip report once again.
We arrived back at the tent at around 10, somewhat exhausted from our scree fest. I was very happy though, since I had just completed my 100th summit. A bit of an accomplishment for a 17 year old.
We bumped into this fellow as we got back to our tent.
Then it was breakfast time. Those Quaker sweetened oats tasted really good after a morning of starving on the mountain (not really starving, but we didn't bring any food). Fueled up, we had to have a little rest and then got packed up and ready to go. Too bad we couldn't enjoy the lake for longer, but the wind was picking up and it was getting a bit later so we had to head out.
Now heading down to Lake Alice from our bivy. The clouds were starting to roll in now.
Walking down the Lake Alice headwall
Wow. The Dolomite Creek Valley with Dolomite Peak behind.
Some sun shines in the valley as we walk back.
Right on cue, our friend came out to say hi. This is the rock that he lives under.
Looking back at OXO Peak over an unnamed tarn. Still impressed by how nice of a spot it is, even the second time around!
Now approaching Lake Katherine and Helen Ridge. We saw a whole bunch of marmots standing up and screaming at us around here, but I don't have any good photos. They are interesting creatures for sure...
And now for the approximately 150 m of elevation back up to Helen Ridge. Not the most fun I do have to say. I think this is the reason so few people head back here, but it's good, I say leave it for the few explorers to go enjoy in peace and solitude.
Cirque Peak looks great on this day. I love the purple on it. So rare, so cool.
Crystal Ridge over Helen Lake.
Basically as soon as we got up on to Helen Ridge, we started seeing hordes of people. Even on a Monday it was quite packed. Lots of retired looking folks. Hmm...
We then headed down the easy trail option from Helen Ridge and wondered why no one notices it. It really is a lot easier.
Once we reached the lake, our last bit of food was consumed, this was a tuna can each, some crackers, and a tiny granola bar. It was enough to get us out so I guess we rationed our supplies properly during the trip.
The lake looks a bit different this time around, definitely not as pretty.
I stopped to talk to a couple folks that were taking pictures of the lake. They were really nice and told me all about the Dolomite Circuit, which was interesting to hear about. In turn I also told them about our adventure and mentioned how the lake looked just the morning before. One of the group members told me that he'd been up here 4 times and had never seen it like we'd seen it. Perhaps it is luck? I like to think it's skill and timing on our part though.
I then left that group and started walking to catch up with my dad.
Dolomite Peak with Mount Hector behind.
As I was walking, I kind of just starting talking with a group that I caught up with. I told them all about this website and our adventure, as well as the peaks in the area and they let me know about the hiking club that they were there with. It's called MnM (Mountains On Mondays) and looks like a great outdoors club (55+). This is why there were so many retired folks out! I walked with their group for a while and they caught me up to my dad, who was also chatting with another fellow hiker. We soon left all our new friends and set a blistering pace back to the parking lot.
The train of MnMs heading down the trail.
Bow Peak comes into view as we come around the "u turn" corner.
I do have to say that the last part to the parking lot is kind of a tiny little bit excessively long. It would be way more ideal to just go straight up and over Crystal Ridge. It might even be quicker too!
Almost back to the parking lot now. Just kidding the descent isn't actually that bad. It just takes a bit of a roundabout route as with all graded trails, but they sure are nice to have.
I guess that's another one in the books. I do have to say that this was an incredible trip. Sure, Watermelon Peak and Bobac Mountain may not have been the most enjoyable ascents, but they were good to put our route finding and exploration skills to work. We ended up summitting both, so I can't really complain too much. I also think that Bobac Mountain was the best peak to be my 100th. Loose, challenging, and full of scree, basically the definition of scrambling in the Rockies, so it was perfect. I have absolutely nothing bad to say about Cirque Peak though, that was such an enjoyable summit for the entire time. Overall, all the lakes were also quite amazing, with the Helen Lake mirror being my favorite. I kind of also wished that we could spend more time at Lake Alice, because we didn't really get the chance to fully appreciate it. It's also a bit of a bummer that we didn't get the perfect sunrise on Bobac, but I'm still very happy with that peak. We also probably met about 10 or more wonderful people on the trail this trip and as usual, loved the conversations. It's kind of bittersweet when such a great trip like this ends, but there will always be another one. I think every time I get amazing trips like these, I learn to experience each moment out in the mountains better, because it is such a privilege to be able to do what we do in such a magnificent place. On a final note, I will most definitely be coming back to see Helen Lake and go up to the Helen Ridge Lookout. I might even do Cirque Peak again, who knows. It was that enjoyable.